Ribeira trails from Cova crater

This is the walk people mean when they say they hiked Santo Antão. You start on the rim of Cova crater, usually in cloud, and drop on a Portuguese-era cobbled road into a green valley of banana, grogue stills and goats.

The day

Go with a driver to Cova at first light. The path is obvious but steep. Ribeira da Torre is the classic; Ribeira Grande is longer and more villages. Carry two litres of water. Lunch is cachupa or a grilled fish in a valley house — not a canteen.

Practical notes

Aluguers from Porto Novo climb in the morning. Cloud burns off by ten most days. Trekking poles help on the stones. This is not a beach day. Sleep in Ponta do Sol or Paúl so you are not on the mountain road after dark.